Nikolaihof / Wachau Riesling Vom Stein Federspiel 2015 / 750mL
Geography: Niederösterreich, Austria
94 Points - ROBERT PARKER
92 Points - JAMES SUCKLING
2020 Review: Showing a little volatility with dried lemons and peaches, as well as nuttiness. It’s full-bodied and layered with lots of dried apple, pear and lemon curd with some beeswax. Yogurt, too. Pretty riesling with mature aromas and flavors. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink now.
“Steinriesler” is the archaic name for Riesling, adopted by the estate as an identity for long cask-aged wines of unexceptional ripeness. These will be very tiny quanities—bottles, not cases. The cask-aged one is like the very greatest sous-voile wine you ever drank. It’s more recherché than the ’99 or ’98, which were simply walnutty and estery. The regular Federspiel, basically the in-bottle version of the Steinriesler, is a perfect mature ’02, plummy and suave and lick-your-chops savory and salty. ~Terry Theise
Nikolaihof is one of the oldest wine estates in Austria, whose history goes back almost 2000 years to the Roman empire. Organic, bio-dynamic winery whose wines express the earth, the whole earth and nothing but the earth. Nikolaihof’s wines are often incredibly thick, dense and uncompromisingly stony in character. They’ll do everything for you that great wine can do, if you are patient. Early on you’ll easily see their sheer intensity, but specific details can be lost in a monolith of concentration, an opacity that can be perplexing if you don’t know what’s ahead. Here you just stand on the prow and feel the wind and look at the swollen waves of vinosity and hope you aren’t swept overboard. And hope you are. . . .