Marc Deschamps / Pouilly Fume / Les Champs de Cri / 2018 / 750mL
This wine is a gem! Marc Deschamps is one of the legends of French wine. His Sauvignon Blancs are among the finest on the planet, and yet he remains relatively overlooked - just like his chosen appellation of Pouilly-Fumé.
Les Champs de Cri comes from a single vineyard plot in the Medieval wine commune of Les Loges - the vines planted by the Augustine monks in the 11th century. Here the abundant flint in the soils mixed with large limestone cobbles delivers a wine of deep, earthy complexity on light elegant fast feet. This wine shines, it dances in your mouth. Your taste buds are dazzled by a collaboration of gentle orange blossoms, alluring jasmine, pear and peach fruits, dry steely stony minerality, even a hint of beeswax and violets. The interplay as you sip is deceptive, for as the fruits fade away from your taste buds, the gentle power of the flint and rocks just builds and builds in your mouth, and the length of this wine is staggering.
Deschamps is nothing short of a magician. He can accomplish seemingly all sides of the flavor wheel in one sip - his intuitive hand can almost convince your tongue that it can taste seemingly contrasting things at once and still find it all utterly delicious. He leaves the wine in contact with its lees for a long time adding sensual texture and structure. And the very old vines he uses for his Champs de Cri produce grapes that reveal mellow, deep Sauvignon Blanc fruit.
This is a remarkably great wine - one that can be enjoyed now or can be stored away for many years to come. Not a trace of the hefty warm character of the 2018 vintage in this wine - it remains pure, clean, focused and driven. The pinnacle of Sauvignon Blanc on earth.
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